Last Conformation Drop In Tuesday, 11/26

Braveheart Dog Training will no longer be offering drop in conformation classes. Our last drop in conformation class will be next Tuesday evening at 7pm. We will be offering 4 week session conformation classes, Tuesdays at 7pm starting 1/7/14 and Wednesdays at 12pm starting on 1/8/14. Classes are 4 weeks, 30 minutes, $40. Late add ins at a prorated fee will be welcome as space allows. Please contact me to register. There will be no conformation group classes throughout December but I will have some availability for private lessons.

No Conformation Class on Wednesday, November 27

There will be no drop in conformation class on Wednesday, November 27.

Change to Conformation Classes

Effective January 2014, my Tuesday 7pm and Wednesday 12pm classes will no longer be drop in and will be on a four class session schedule. This is to ensure that I do not end up with too many or too few dogs in a class which has become an issue at times. 

Here is how it will work. A new four week session will start every five to six weeks. The cost will be $40 for the four classes. If there are no sign ups, class will be canceled until the next session, if I get two or more, the class will run. You will need to register before the start of class. You will not need to fill out a registration form, just RSVP. You may pay before the class starts or at the first class. Please only RSVP if you are definitely sure you will be there. If there is space available, I will allow people to add in late, after a class has started at a prorated fee. I am trying to keep it flexible and easy to work around, yet still making it so that I can better schedule my time. 

If you have a discount card, you can still use those now. If you have a card with classes left at the end of the year, I will take it off of the cost of the class for you.

Thank you so much to all of you for your continued support and confidence. I truly appreciate all of you. I appreciate everyone understanding why I need to make this change. I purposely keep this class low key. It is a small space and I do not make it a point of advertising/marketing it a lot because I like to keep it small and full of clients who share my vision and philosophy in how we train and handle our animals.

The first four week sessions will start on Tuesday, January 7 and Wednesday, January 8.

Cat Training...gasp!

Like I always say, or maybe preach (yikes), the methods that I use and teach other people to use work on all animals, not just our dogs. As I was reading a friends Facebook post about some shy kitties I was working with, I thought about the work I have done with our cat and realized that I haven't shared what is, perhaps, my biggest and most proudest animal training accomplishment. That is the desensization and counter conditioning of Lollipop.

In 2008, my father was diagnosed with terminal cancer. He was given a couple of months, at the most, to live. He lived alone in the mountains and was dead set against going back to the hospital. We made the decision to keep him home with the help of hospice. My brothers and I would take turns staying with him and caring for him to the end of his life. It was a sad, but wonderful and amazing experience. As soon as we realized that we would be losing him, I knew I had to make arrangements for his cat Lollipop. Lolli was born in my dad's garage from a stray cat. Her sister was placed into a home and her mom had passed away, so my dad only had her. She was extremely fearful of people, dogs and would stay hidden when we came to visit. Only my dad could handle her, she slept with him at night and he could comb her and do pretty much anything with her. I told my dad that I would take her home and it was good to see he was relieved, but I knew I had a lot of work to do because I couldn't even get near her at that point.

I decided to start working with her and using desensitization and counter conditioning to help her feel more comfortable. She was always hiding when we were there, so at first, there was no way I could work with her directly. I got some cans of tuna and canned cat food. I began to leave a paper plate with food on it in the garage on my dad's car. I don't remember why I started there, but I did. It has been a few years now, so I don't remember all the details, but I remember that being the first piece. As I kept leaving the food and just being around more, I began to see Lollipop some of the time, but still could get no where near her.

My dad had created a cat door so that Lolli could get in and out of his bedroom at night. I realized that at night, after it was all quiet and my dad was alone in there, she would go sleep with him. I started waiting in there for her, with the tuna and canned food. At first, I would just put it on the paper plate and stay there, nearby. This helped her realize that whenever I was around, tuna or canned food seemed to be around also. I began to place myself closer to the plate as she came in and ate it. I don't remember how long this went on, but it was probably a week. Also, I would have days where I would go home and my brothers would be there with my dad, so there was no training during those periods.

Eventually, I tried to pet her and she let me! This was a big step for her. From there I began to offer food from my hand and pet her while she was eating. It was all about trying to teach her that 1) I am associated with good things, 2) I will respect her terms and move at her pace, 3) she is safe with me and free from pressure or force.

A month after starting hospice, my dad died. We were all there with him. Lolli came in to see him that night and he was gone. I was able to close the cat door and the bedroom door so she couldn't leave the room as I was worried what she would do with him gone. She cried for him and after they took him I went and slept with her in there that night and it actually did seem to relax her and she stopped crying for him.

The next day I took Lollipop home and she has lived with us since. She is 10 years old now. She likes to sit on our laps and be petted. She has a companion cat that she loves and a next door neighbor cat or is over often who she is also very close to. The doesn't run away from us and the neighbors can get pretty close to her. I am amazed at the progress she made and how much it stuck. She has a 100% reliable recall and when I say "dinner!" she comes immediately.

Here is Lolli shortly after coming here:

Here is Lolli today: 

Stair and Ramp Training

Offering your dog stairs or a ramp to assist him on getting onto furniture or onto the bed seems like a simple idea, but actually getting the dog to use the stairs or ramp could be more challenging than you may expect.  As a professional trainer and behavior consultant living with several Dachshunds, including some who have suffered back injuries or ailments, I have taught many dogs to use ramps and/or stairs.  I am happy to share these ideas with others in hopes that it will help people assist their dogs in becoming accustomed to using these helpful tools.

Ramp and Steps

There are a lot of different steps and ramps on the market that you can buy.  You can also construct your own, which may be the way to go depending on your situation.  With a dog that has had severe back problems, is weak or experiences pain, a ramp would probably be easier and safer choice for the dog.  Steps are great for dogs that are very mobile or as a preventative from jumping on and off of things.  Ramps are generally easier for the dogs to get up and down.  Keep in mind that the less steep they are, the better.

I have found that many of the stairs on the market for dogs are constructed so that the stairs are very shallow.  This can cause the dog to just prefer to jump over the stairs or race up or down them, particularly if you have a long backed dog like a Dachshund.  I recommend ordering stairs that are deeper, so that the dog can more easily navigate over them.  I also recommend stairs that are not slick but are carpeted to help with traction.  Sometimes when people have a difficult time getting their dog to use the steps or a ramp, it is because of the way that particular one is made.  So, it is important to think about this when you buy or make yours.  Some dogs will take readily to one type, but not to another type. 

Here are some steps that I like.  They are nice because they are deeper so that a long backed dog has more space to step onto.  I also like these ones because they have carpet on them. 

 
    

Ramps can be a great option too.  As I mentioned, ramps are probably a better choice for a dog that may be in pain or that has a more difficult time moving around.  The more level the ramp, the easier it is for the dog, so keep that in mind if you build your own.  Ramps should also be covered with carpet or some other non-slip covering.

                       

 

Getting Used to the Steps or Ramp

Some dogs will need some time to just get accustomed to the ramp or steps.  So, you may need to just set them up and see what happens.  Put it where you want it, against your furniture or bed and then just leave it there for a few days.  Some dogs will just start using it on their own.  Others will require training.

As soon as your dog is comfortable in the presence of the steps or ramp, you can begin training.

Step or Ramp Training

Generally, we will be training the same way whether or not we are using the steps or ramp, but may modify some things.  So, when I say “ramp”, in the training instructions, know that I am referring to steps or a ramp.

The first thing that you need to do is find a high value food that your dog loves.  The food will be used as a “reinforcer” while we train the behavior.   The food should be something the dog really likes such as small bits of chicken, hot dog, lunch meat or cheese.  We will use food to build and reinforce the behavior.  Eventually, the behavior of using the ramp will be reinforced by being on the furniture.  In other words, to train it, we are using food, but the behavior will be maintained by the access to the furniture that the dog receives by using it.

Once the dog is completely used to the steps you are ready to begin.  With the dog out of the room, place a couple of pieces of high value food at the bottom of the ramp, or on first step.  Position yourself next to the ramp and wait for your dog to find the food.  The moment he starts to eat the food, place another piece of food, a few inches higher from the first piece.  If the dog eats the second piece, place another piece a couple of inches higher.  If the dog doesn’t eat the second piece, feed a little bit more on that lowest spot and then try again to place it a little higher. 

If it is taking you some time to get the dog to step on, periodically toss a treat away, directly in front of the ramp but a few feet away so that he gets to start the process over.  Remember that approaching the ramp is part of the process, so it is okay to do this.  Also, if the dog is unsure, this gives him a release of pressure and time to collect his thoughts and start over.  Finally, approaching the ramp over and over

will help him get more used to the ramp and associate the ramp with good things.

If the dog is not interested, you probably need to use higher value food.  The dog may not be willing to try and figure it out for kibble, but may be willing to work through it for chicken.  So, be prepared to switch up the reinforcer if necessary.

It is critical that the dog be allowed to choose to approach the ramp and step onto it and that he not be forced to do it.  Too much pressure, even enticing with food can be too much for some dogs who are cautious about something. 

If the dog is comfortable eating the food and moving forward a little bit on the ramp, go ahead and continue to add food as the dog takes steps forward.

      

If your dog picks it up easily, either lift him off the couch and try again, or teach him to walk down the stairs.

         

If your dog does not pick it up quickly, it’s okay, just spend more time teaching him and working through it.  Also, if your dog is not comfortable going up, try putting him on the couch and then seeing if going down is easier than going up.  Some dogs are more comfortable coming down the ramp.  It just depends on the dog.

Be sure to teach the dog to come down the ramp confidently.  Dogs who do not know how to use the ramp may jump over it.

The biggest mistake I see people make when they are shaping a behavior like this is that they want and expect the dog to get it too fast.  You absolutely must move at the dog’s pace. 

While I do use food for this training, I am very careful to train in small enough steps that the dog is never pushed or forced and gets reinforced for every tiny step or move in the right direction.  I want to build this behavior with confidence and allowing the dog to choose helps to do that.

If you have multiple dogs, practice with each of them and see who takes to it the easiest.  Then, you can work with that dog and then let the other dog observe and follow the first dog. 

Some things to keep in mind:

·         Do not ever pressure or force your dog to use the stairs or ramp. 

·         Do not just place the dog on the stairs or ramp, especially if they are uncomfortable with it.  Just being placed onto something you are worried or suspicious about will make the dog feel worried and want to get off of it.  Also, it is a breach of trust, between you and the dog.

·         Take your time and allow your dog to take breaks.

·         Use very high value treats like chicken, cheese or pieces of hot dog.  The pieces should be very small but high value because you want to reinforce every single little move in the right direction.

·         Placing yourself next to the ramp, on the side of it, will help give your dog a sense of security. 

·         If you have a very difficult time with this, start by training your dog to step onto something else such as a step, cushion, aerobic step or some other item that has only level and is not as high first.  Then, try progressing to the ramp or steps.

November Newsletter

This past month and this past weekend, in particular, has been so busy that I almost missed getting out the newsletter!  I have had a few days to recuperate from the workshop weekend and am now ready to do your newsletter!

This newsletter has a lot of information in it, including the changes that will take place with the drop in conformation classes.  Please check it out!

The Howl-O-Ween and 10 Year Anniversary party was a big success!  Thank you to all of you who took the time to come and join us!  We had a great time at the party and I was really pleased at how many people were able to come and celebrate with us!

First Place in the Costume Contest went to Sophie and her dog Charlotte

First Place in the Tricks Contest went to Sabrina and her dog Butters for her "Rock the Boat" trick!

First Place in the Catch Contest went to Kathy and Bigges!

DOG OF THE MONTH

This month's dog of the month is actually going to two dogs!  The dynamic duo of Luna and Niko!  These sweet puppies are still just baby dogs but have attended several Braveheart classes including Three's Company, Tricks class, Intermediate and Nose Work!  Their parents Danielle and Eric understand the need for these young working dogs to be kept busy!

UPCOMING CLASSES

Puppy Preschool, San Leandro, Thursday, 11/7, 6-6:50pm

Rally with Me Flash Class, San Leandro, Saturday, 11/9, 10-11am

Turkey Dogs Flash Class, San Leandro, Thursday, 11/14, 7-7:50pm

Skills for the Show Ring, San Leandro, Mondays, 12/9, 6-6:50pm

Brain Benders, San Leandro, Thursdays, 12/5, 7-7:50pm

Please contact me if you are interested in attending any of these upcoming classes.

CONFORMATION CLASS CHANGES

It is very likely that the Tuesday evening and Wednesday noon drop in conformation classes, will become session classes after the 1st of January.  What this means is that instead of these classes being a drop in class, they will be 4 class sessions.  Everything will stay the same except that they will not longer be drop in, instead, you will need to sign up for the 4 week class and attend all of those 4 classes.  The cost will be $40. Everything else will remain the same.  They will still be held at the same time and will still be 30 minutes long. A new 4 week session will start within a week or two of the prior one ending.  

UPCOMING SEMINARS

Three Wishes Conformation Seminar with Vicki Ronchette

Saturday, January 4, 2014, 9am - 2pm

Working spots - $85, Auditing spots - $65

Attendees will get to list three specific issues that they want to discuss, learn about and get help with. Space is very limited, so register for this one soon!  Click here for more info!

Canine Emotional Detox with Diane Garrod

April 5 & 6, 2014

This unique and highly effective program is great for dogs with any and all behavior issues or challenges as it prepares the dog for a behavior modification program, but also helps the trainer and owner gather more helpful information about the dog.  Click here for more info.

Bird Blog

I recently started a bird training blog.  If you are interested in following my parrot training adventures and information or just like reading about training in general, check it out here http://braveheartbirds.blogspot.com/

Facebook Chat

Vicki will be doing a Facebook chat for the International Association of Animal Behavior Counselors on November 21 at 1pm EST.

Pet Professional Guild

Vicki will be doing a Positive Training for Show Dogs webinar for the PPG on Thursday, December 12.

SHOW LIKE A PRO!

Thank you to all those who attended the Show Like a Pro! conformation workshop weekend.  It was a very busy, fun and successful weekend.  Suzy Olsen, the trainer I hosted from Texas was great and I think everyone really enjoyed the weekend.  Enjoy a few photos: